Pork Fillet / Tenderloin - Heritage, Pasture Raised

This is pasture-raised heritage pork, from traditional slow-growing breeds prized above almost any other for the quality of their meat. Heritage pigs raised on pasture take their time and marble beautifully, and it shows: the meat is darker, richer and more finely grained than commodity pork, with a fat that carries genuine flavour rather than just moisture. This is pork as it's meant to taste.

The Cut
The tenderloin is a long, slender muscle running along the inside of the backbone beneath the loin. It does very little work, which makes it the most tender cut on the pig, the pork equivalent of a beef eye fillet. It's naturally lean, so where commodity tenderloin can be bland and quick to dry out, a heritage tenderloin carries more flavour and a finer grain, giving you that melt-in-the-mouth texture with real taste behind it. Each one is small, usually feeding two, and cooks in minutes.

How to Cook It
Trim off the silverskin, the thin shiny membrane on the surface, by sliding a sharp knife just beneath it. Pat dry and season generously with salt.

Sear in a hot ovenproof pan with a little oil, turning until golden all over, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add butter, garlic and thyme or sage and baste, then transfer to a 200°C oven for 8 to 12 minutes until the centre reaches 60 to 63°C. Rest for 5 to 10 minutes; it will continue to cook and stay blushing pink and juicy. Slice into thick medallions to serve.

It's also excellent cut into medallions and pan fried, wrapped in prosciutto and roasted, stuffed and rolled, crumbed for schnitzel or katsu, or sliced thinly for stir fries. Pair it with apple, mustard, cider, fennel, prunes or a creamy peppercorn sauce.

Tips

• The golden rule: don't overcook it. Being so lean, tenderloin goes from perfect to dry quickly. A meat thermometer is your best friend here.
• Tuck the thin tail end under and tie it with string so the whole piece cooks evenly.
• Always rest before slicing, so the juices stay in the meat and not on the board.
• Wrapping in prosciutto or bacon adds fat and flavour and helps protect it in the oven.

A Little History
Tenderloin has long been the prized cut of the pig, kept for special occasions when the rest of the animal went to the smokehouse and the salting tub. The French serve it as filet mignon de porc, the Japanese crumb and fry it as hire katsu, and in America's Midwest it's pounded thin, breaded and served in a bun as the famous pork tenderloin sandwich. Cooked with care, a tenderloin from a slow-grown heritage pig shows exactly why it has always been the cut kept for the best of occasions.